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Clutch: Vintage Vespa Clutch Rebuild

Vintage Vespa, from Scooterworks Chicago

Step 1: remove the clutch cover.

Step 2: place a shop towel or old rag in between the bottom of the clutch and case - this will prevent anything from falling into the case (that's bad).

Step 3: remove the clutch by undoing the center nut behind the pressure plate. You may have to first bend the tab up, which will secure the clutch nut in its place. Loosen the nut by turning counterclockwise, which (depending on model) may requires a special clutch compression tool. If you don't have this tool, CLICK HERE to check it out on Scooterworks' website.

Step 4: pull the clutch off. This may require a stiff pull, but the clutch will come off. If the clutch doesn't want to slide off easily, put screwdrivers behind it (180 degrees from each other) and slowly apply pressure to each screwdriver in sequence to "walk" the clutch off.

Step 5: compress the clutch and remove the retaining clip. To compress the clutch, use the clutch compressor tool (from Step 3, above) or use a large bolt, 2 large washers, and nut. With the clutch compressed you can easily undo the clip and remove the clutch plates.

Step 6: inspect and/or replace the items listed below. If any component looks worn, replace it - because all these components work in concert, one worn part failing could easily trash a bunch of new parts, so remember: it doesn't pay to skimp. If you cut corners, you'll be doing this again very soon.

BUSHINGS
- most Vespa clutches have 2 brass bushings in them. These 2 bushings wear out and cause the clutch to grab unevenly (clutch lurch). This problem mimics "popping" the clutch to do a wheelie. This condition not only damages the clutch assembly, it also stresses the spring gear assembly.

CLUTCH BASKET / BELL HOUSING
- another item in the clutch that tends to get over looked is the basket, which is the part that the clutch plates slide into, and where they are held in place. This unit tends to flare open under heavy use and cause the clutch plates to bind. To check the clutch bell for damage, all you need to do is try to fit the outer clutch plate (plate with cork only on one side) into the bell. If the plate drops in easily, the bell is OK. Check look for in the clutch bell is any divots at the part's edges (where the clutch plates engage the bell). If there are any divots in these surfaces, the clutch plates will "hang up" and not disengage properly.

CLUTCH PLATES
- these are what make the clutch work. Both the cork plates and the steel plates should be replaced when you overhaul your clutch. Soak the cork plates in oil overnight if you have the time or at least for a couple of hours. This helps ensure your clutch won’t stick together after you finish the rebuild. Give the metal plates a mild sanding with some 400-grit paper to prepare the surface.

CLUTCH SPRINGS
- these springs tend to lose their stiffness over time, and definitely need replacing. CLICK HERE to check out Scooterworks' available clutch springs.

CLUTCH NUT AND TAB WASHER
- the clutch nut can get really torn up when you are trying to get it out so you may want to have one on hand if you need to replace it. The tab washer is vital in making sure the clutch nut does not come undone. Always replace the tab washer.

WOODRUFF KEY
- the clutch woodruff key must be in perfect shape. It keeps the clutch from spinning on the end of the crankshaft. Replace it if looks even the remotest, tiniest bit "suspicious".

PRESSURE PLATE AND PUSH-OUT BEARING
- the pressure plate and push-out bearing are the pieces that physically cause the clutch to engage and disengage. The pressure plate should have a nice, smooth surface and the push-out bearing should still have the groove across the face visible. If either part looks worn replace it.

Step 7: oil everything liberally and reassemble the scooter, in the reverse order that you took it apart. Make sure you have the Woodruff key fully seated when putting the clutch back on.