Vintage Vespa Refurb

While this scooter didn’t quite start out as a barn find, it wasn’t too far off.  It had its humble beginnings as a bodge job, meaning that, at some point, someone made it look decent and wired it up like they were high on glue.

This 1966 Vespa VBC was has been restored and is ready for the next 48 years of its life.

Ryan Jeffries, Scooterworks alum, 100cc land speed record holder and all-around good guy, took this 1966 Vespa Super home with him and brought it up to snuff.  He started by stripping the bike down to just a frame and a fender.  He saved what he could, but some of it was better off in the trash.  Ryan then did a bit of body work, repainted the frame and fender along with the cowls and tank, and redid the trim.  He ran all new cables and a harness and replaced the rubber bits along the way.

Complete 150cc two stroke engine for most old Vespas

This scooter got a brand new LML 150cc 5 port engine, which included a 20/20 carb and a stock exhaust.  The new engine has an edge over its Vespa predecessor, with reed induction and electronic ignition.

1966 Vespa Super restoration shots

All of the fun stuff like the lights and switches were wired in.  Brand new bearings, suspension and steering went up the chimney with care.  The change over to a Sprint fork allowed this Super to run on 10” wheels, just like it always wished for.  Fresh rims, tubes and tires were installed along with new grips, levers, seat and speedo.

Vespa Super, chilling out by a wall, looking all brand new

Anyone who has ever restored anything knows that it is a labor of love.  Faithful restorations take time, money and an insane amount of patience.  NOS parts have long since dried up in many cases; repops don’t have same charm and, in some cases, quality.  If you are thinking about restoring the old Vespa in your uncle’s garage, or the one you got on Craigslist that ‘just needs a carb cleaning’, we’re here to help. We also carry some great books and manuals to help you on your way, and a boatload of accessories for when you’re finished.


Partial build list:

Two Tires Two Tubes Two Rims Deal (2T2R2T)

Rear Shock (83816)

Front Shock (137571S)

Front Fork Assembly (152300)

Engine Side Cowl (100097)

Glovebox Side Cowl (91836)

Cowl Rubber (135231B)

Sprint/Super Seat (CSS1)

Floor Rail Kit (FRKVNB)

Centermat (85072)

Centermat Trim (85074)

Taillight Assembly (70700)

Complete Cable Set (CCS6)

150cc 2T LML Engine (145227NI)

Grips (60304B)

Fender and Cowl Trim Set (90522)

Speedometer (183586)

Centerstand with Boots (91047)

Gas Tank (94146)

Stiletto Levers (70578)

Wiring Harness (92563)

Welcome to the Slaughterhouse

Scooterworks Tech advisor, Ken, took full advantage of an unsuspecting Roughhouse last week.  The result was a very angry scooter that he dubbed ‘The Slaughterhouse’.

With a suspension overhaul, the Prima race pipe and a slew of NCY performance parts, he took this scooter from a back roads errand runner to an asphalt hell raiser.

RoughHouse Scooter, this 50cc 2t means business

Ken replaced the stock cylinder with a 68cc ceramic NCY jug and head, and the NCY Direct Ignition Coil was added for hotter spark.  He swapped the stock carb with an adjustable 19mm Malossi carburetor to compensate for the bigger displacement.  The air box was replaced with the Scooterworks racing air filter for more flow, and the new carbon fiber Pinasco reeds make this baby’s heart a-flutter.  All of these changes mean that this little beast is breathing the way it was meant to, and getting all of the tasty premix it so craves.   He also installed the NCY Super Trans Kit, using lighter weights for more delicious torque, and a Malossi Kevlar Belt to handle it all.

The beefed-up front end on the Slaughterhouse is probably the most obvious upgrade.  Ken replaced just about everything he could with NCY parts, from fork tubes and the disc brake to the caliper and valve stems.  The result- a better ride that eats stoppies for breakfast.

Multiple angles on this scooter's performance upgrades

Ken also snagged our prototype low profile RoughHouse seat (expected this spring, in black and red) and installed the Scooterworks Low Down Shock, reducing the seat height a full three inches in the process.

All of these upgrades are well and good, but perhaps the most notable and reasonable for the sane rider, such as you, are the tires.  By switching from the stock knobby tires to Vee Rubber sport tires, he has added about 4 mph to his top speed, all while giving the Slaughterhouse a more refined, business casual look.

Sport tires and a race exhaust on a Genuine RoughHouse Scooter


Side by side of a stock Genuine RoughHouse and a customized, angrier one.

The Slaughterhouse is not affiliated with the Slaughterhouse Rally, which is held in Chicago every year over Labor Day weekend, and is awesome.  For more info on that, join their Facebook group or scope out their website.  This year’s details are coming soon!


Build List:

Prima Race Pipe, Genuine 50cc (PE-THIRTYTWO)

NCY Super Trans Kit; GY50/QMB139 (1200-1171)

NCY Rollers 16×13, 6G (1200-1051)

Direct Ignition Coil 0900-1075

NCY Cylinder w/ Head 47mm, 68cc (1100-1245)

NCY Adjustable Front Forks (1000-1134)

NCY 200mm Floated Disc Brake  (1000-1289)

NCY Forged Brake Caliper (1000-1311)

NCY Banjo Bolt (1600-0010)

NCY Throttle & Grip Set (0800-0102)

NCY Brake Line (1100-1238)

Prima Rear Rack (RRRAT1-B)

Scooterworks Low Down Shock (1000-1293)

Vee Rubber Sport Tire, Front (0600-0063)

Vee Rubber Sport Tire, Rear (0600-0033)

NCY Valve Stem (0600-0005)

NCY Axle (1000-1263)

Scooterworks Racing Air Filter (1300-1112)

Malossi Kevlar Belt (M 6112729)

Pinasco Reed Petals (P 10387503)

19mm Malossi Performance Carb M 1611028

Spark Plug Type by Model


Model NGK spark plug
Black Cat 50 BR7HS/BPR7HS
Rattler 50 BR7HS/BPR7HS
Buddy 50 BR7HS/BPR7HS
Rattler 110 BR7HS/BPR7HS
Buddy 125 CR7HSA
Buddy 150 CR7HSA
Blur 150 CR7E
Stella B7ES


Modern Vespa

Model NGK spark plug
LX150 CR8E
Vespa S CR8E
GT200 CR8E
GTS Super CR8E


Vintage Vespa

Model NGK spark plug
49-150cc except GS150 B6HS or B7ES (7 is a cooler plug, 6 is hotter)
GS 150 B6HS or B7ES
160cc and up B6HS or B7ES



Model NGK spark plug
Typhoon BR8ES
BV200 CR8E
MP3-250 CR7E/CR7EK
MP3-400 CR7E/CR7EK
MP3-500 CR7E/CR7EK



Model NGK spark plug
Cobra BR6HSA
Super9 LC BR6HSA
Super9 AC BR6HSA
People50 2T BR6HSA
Agility50 4T CR7HSA
Vitality50 4T CR7HSA
People S 50 CR7HSA
Filly 4T CR7HSA
Yup50/Sting BR8HSA
Sento C7HSA
Agility 125 CR7HSA
People S 125 CR7HSA
Super8 150 CR7HSA
People 150 CR7HSA
Bet&Win 150 DPR7EA-9
People S 200 CR7HSA
People 250 DPR7EA-9
People S 250 DPR7EA-9
Bet&Win 250 DPR7EA-9
Grand Vista DPR7EA-9
Xciting 250 DPR7EA-9
Xciting 250Ri CR8E
Xciting 500 CR8E
Xciting 500Ri CR8E
Venox 250 CR8E



Model NGK spark plug
Delivery50 BR7HS/BPR7HS
Delivery150 CR7HSA
Sunset50 BR7HS/BPR7HS
Sunset150 CR7HSA
LaserR5-50 BR7HS/BPR7HS
LaserR9-150 CR7HSA

We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of this chart.  Always compare your plug with the new one before installing, and check your plug for proper color periodically.

Bulb and Lighting Charts (by Make/Model)

Untitled Document

The part numbers on this page assume stock/factory light fixtures and standard (OEM) wiring. Bulb types and part numbers may change with aftermarket assemblies or upgraded 12V electrics.

The following tables are organized by make/brand. Scooterworks part numbers are listed (in parentheses) where applicable. More makes/models will be added as the information becomes available.

To browse through Scooterworks‘ comprehensive online catalog for replacement parts or aftermarket/custom lighting solutions click here.

Type Key B = Bayonet style bulb (standard push in and turn type bulb)
F = Festoon bulb (looks like a fuse)


Model Headlamp Pilot Light Stop Light Tail Light Speedo Light Turn Signal
Genuine Stella 2T/4S

Halogen H4 35 Watt (B12H4)
Headlight Assy. (582946)

    Taillight Assy. (B6F5)   RR Assy. (230339)
LR Assy. (230339)
RF Assy. (163256)
LF Assy. (162817)


Vintage Vespa

Model Headlamp Pilot Light Stop Light Tail Light Speedo Light Turn Signal
Vespa 125 VN1-2 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) F 6v-10w (B6F10)   F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
Vespa 150 VL1 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) F 6v-10w (B6F10)   F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
Vespa 125 VNA 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) F 6v-5w (B6F5)   F 6v-5w (F5)    
VNB1 125 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
VNB1 125 Non-Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-5w (B6P5) F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
VNB2-4 125 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
VBA 150 (Model #76051+) Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  

VBA 150   Non-Battery

6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-5w (B6P5) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
VBB1 150 (Model #71000-) Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
VBB1 150 (Model #71001+) Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
VBB1 150 Non-Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-5w (B6P5) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
VBB2 150 Non Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
GL 150 VLA1 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
GL 150 VLA1 Non Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
GS 150 VS1 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) F 6v-5w (B6F5)   F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
GS 150 VS2 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) F 6v-1.5w   F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-1.5w (B6FSP)  
GS 150 VS3-4 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) B 6v-1.5w F 6v-10w (B6F10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-1.5w (B6FSP)  
GS 150 VS 5 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) B 6v-5w (B6P5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
GS 160 VSB1 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
GS 160 VSB1 Non Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
Vespa 50 V5A1 V5SA1 V5SS 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-10w (B6F10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
Vespa 50 V5A1 No Stop Light 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5)   F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
Vespa 90 V9A1 V9SS1 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *F 6v-10w (B6F10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
Vespa SS90 V9SS2 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) F 6v-10w (B6F10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
Primavera 125 VMA1 VMA2 & ET3 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *F 6v-10w (B6F10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
Super 125 VNC 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
Super 150 VBC 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP) (B6TS-US Model)
GT 125 VNL2 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
GTR 125 VNL2 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
Sprint (Veloce) 150 VLB1 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP) (B6TS-US Model)
Super Sport 180 VSC1 Non Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
Super Sport 180 VSC1 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP) (B6TS-US Model)

Rally 180 & 200 VSD1 VSE1

6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP) (B6TS-US Model)
P125 VNX, 150 VLX & 200 VSX 12v-25/25w (B12HL/Euro, 174873/US Model)   (dual filament bulb B122W) (dual filament bulb B122W) 12v-3w 12v-21w (B12TS)
P150 VLX 12v-25/25w (B12HL/Euro, 174873/US Model)   (dual filament bulb B122W) (dual filament bulb B122W) 12v-3w 12v-21w (B12TS)
P200 VSX1T 12v-25/25w (B12HL/Euro, 174873/US Model) (dual filament bulb B122W) (dual filament bulb B122W) 12v-3w 12v-21w (B12TS)


Engine: 5-port LML Engine Install (FAQs)

The replacement 5-port engine from LML is a popular Scooterworks product for vintage Vespa restorations – and for good reason: it’s usually a faster, smoother, and more reliable motor than the original!

Below, you’ll find some of the most common questions asked about the 5-port engine’s installation.


This is the most common question when installing the LML engine into a vintage Vespa without battery or signals. The LML stator is a “single” output stator, which means that all of the power comes through one wire, runs through the regulator, to the switch, and is then distributed to the bulbs and horn from there.

NOTE: most US-model vintage Vespa scooters before MY1974 used a three wire output. On these (-’74) models, the stator had three wires (either 2 yellow and 1 red, OR 1 yellow, 1 blue, and 1 green) to feed the lighting system. This style of wiring will not work with the single wire stator, since most did not have an inline regulator and the power from the stator will not be distributed correctly. In order to properly connect the electrical system, a wiring conversion kit (shown, below) is required.

Wiring Conversion Harness Kit Image


LML engines are shipped with some electrical components: a silver box (regulator), a red box (CDI). If you purchased the wiring harness kit, you will only be using the blue CDI/coil unit and the components that came with the conversion kit. These other components (the silver and red boxes) will not be used.



There are three posts on the voltage regulator supplied with the EIKHK harness (above). Two of the posts are closer together and one is “separate”. That separated post is the ground, connect the black wire there. The two posts closer together are both “positive”, connect the blue wire here (either one).



This is another component of the engine that will not be used for the install. The blue CDI/coil unit mentioned above contains everything you need. Remove the grey coil and set it aside (you never know when you’ll need extra electrical parts!).

TIP: when you take the coil off, unscrew the plug wire from it and use it on the new CDI/coil combo. Use the wiring diagram (below) as a reference.


These are just the most common questions regarding the LML 5-port engine install – there are many more that you may have, so don’t hesitate to call us at 1-888-968-3772.

5-port LML Engine Run-in


The first 500 miles of your new 5-port LML engine‘s life are without a doubt the most important. The parts are all new, and they all need a few heat cycles to expand and contract and settle into their correct operating tolerances. Taking your time and getting the run-in right will help to ensure a long, reliable life from your new engine.


Avoid over-straining your new engine with excessive speeds/rpm, and try to keep (more or less) to the speeds, below.

  • 1st Gear : 0-6 mph
  • 2nd Gear : 7-12.5 mph
  • 3rd Gear : 12.5-22 mph
  • 4th Gear : 22 + mph

Also, be sure to vary the bike’s speed while cruising, rather than running “steady state” or simply laying on wide-open-throttle (WOT) for long periods of time – this will allow the engine to break in properly under a variety of load conditions.

Be sure, as well, to allow 5-10 minutes of “cool-down” time for each hour of steady use, and check to ensure that the gear box oil stays at the recommended levels.

During engine break-in, it’s also advisable to check and fine-tune your engine’s carb jetting. CLICK HERE for more carb jetting tips, and feel free to call 1-888-968-3772 with any questions you might have.

Carburetor Jetting 101

Getting the most out of a scooter’s carburetor jets is a tough thing for many people. Carb jetting is often part science, part guesstimate, part trial and error. Without a dynamo-meter and some pretty advanced tools, nobody can tell you exactly which carb jets will extract the maximum performance from your hardware, especially if you’ve created a “one-of-a-kind” machine with a series of aftermarket performance upgrades.

That doesn’t mean there’s nothing to learn and that you can’t – through trial and error – find the right jetting on your own. With that in mind, here’s a (very) basic tutorial on the theory behind proper jetting.

Don’t forget: if you can’t find what you’re looking for here, don’t hesitate to call Scooterworks’ customer support at 1-888-968-3772.


Dellorto Carb Jet

Carburetor jets are small brass fittings (above) that go in the carburetor and have very precisely-bored small holes in them for fuel and/or air to pass through. The size of these holes will determine your fuel to air ratio, and therefore how rich or lean your mixture is.

Most scooters have at least two jets in their carbs. Large frame vintage Vespas have four: a main jet, an atomizer (mix tube), and an air jet make up the main jet “stack.” There’s a separate idle jet too. Each of these is offered in different “sizes” (really hole sizes). It’s important to know what each means.

If your bike is stock, Scooterworks recommends original, factory-spec carb jets. Those settings were selected at the factory for maximum drivability and emissions compliance, and should work fine for you. If you live near sea level, that is. At higher altitude, the air is “thinner” (less oxygen dense) and with smaller jets may be required to get a proper air/fuel mixture.

If you have a factory-spec. scooter and spend most of your time in a high-altitude riding environment (Denver, Mexico City, etc.) start out by trying a jet that is one or two sizes smaller than the factory “sea level” jet.

If you’ve just installed a performance exhaust, try a jet that is one or two sizes larger than stock as a baseline. If you’ve installed a Malossi cylinder kit on your Stella (for example) or done other extensive performance upgrades, go bigger yet!

If you can’t tell whether or not you’ve selected the right jets based on your riding experience, your spark plug can be an effective indicator of how you’re doing. Start with a fresh plug and go for a short ride, then remove your plug and check the tip, which should be chocolaty-brown color. If it’s black and sooty, you’re running too rich (the jet is too big) and need to trim back the fuel (with a smaller jet). If the plug’s tip is white or “salt-and-pepper”, you’re running too lean (the jet is too small) and need more fuel.
TIP No. 1: with your new jet installed, run your scooter’s throttle 3/4 of the way open, then check the plug.
TIP No. 2: after you’ve tried No. 1, repeat the process at 1/4 throttle to determine if your idle jet is the correct size.

For scooters with a needle on the slide, there is usually an adjustment for the needle height in the slide which determines the fuel mixture in the middle 1/3 of the throttle range. You can do a third ride test with the throttle at 1/2 open to determine this mixture. If it’s too rich, lower your slide a notch. If it’s too lean, raise it.

For scooters without a needle on the slide, the adjustment process is a bit different. If you experience bogging or poor acceleration while you’re riding, the idle jet is probably the wrong size. Try adjusting the air mixture screw first (which serves as a fine adjustment tool for the idle jet), and if the problem doesn’t “adjust away”, change the jet size and try again.

Understanding proper jet selection for large frame Vespas requires identifying a number of components within the carb, which include …
– the larger screw-in brass jet (made up of three sections) that regulates fuel/air mixture at the “top” 1/3 of the throttle range (66-100% throttle).

– the small, cone-shaped jet at the bottom of the main jet stack. These are available in various sizes, ranging from 82-165. Most vintage Vespas will use one in the 85-116 range, although high-performance and race-tuned engines may require much more fuel and use much bigger jets. The higher the number, the larger the jet and the more fuel will flow through to the engine.

ATOMIZER (mix tube)
– located in the center of the main jet stack, it has small holes in the sides. The rating on this type is BE1-BE5. These ratings don’t seem to have any rhyme or reason. For example, a BE4 does not necessarily let in more fuel than a BE2. Most people leave this stock and work with the main and air jets.

– located the top of the stack, with a slot for a screwdriver to make fine adjustments. The hole that goes through it allows air into the jet to pre-mix with the fuel in the atomizer. These are available in 120, 160, and 185 sizes. As before, the higher the number, the larger the jet and the more fuel will flow through to the engine.

– the smaller jet which is screwed in next to the main jet stack, the idle jet regulates fuel/air mixture at the bottom 1/3 of the throttle range (idle-33% throttle opening). A combination of the idle jet and the main jet handles the middle 1/3 (34-65% opening). If your idle jet is too big or too small, it can create a “flat spot” in the scooter’s acceleration.

Unlike the other jets on this list, idle jets have two numbers – the first number is the size of the bore that allows fuel in, and the second is the size that allows air in. Some common idle jet sizes are: 38/120, 42/160, 45/120, 45/140, 48/160, 50/120, 55/160. So a 45/120 jet would run richer than a 45/140, because the 120 allows less air to pass. To make things more complicated, some vintage Vespas came with “plugged” idle jets, which have no air hole (these are available in sizes 42 and 50).


Small Frame Vespas have only two jets: a main jet (that the needle passes through), and an idle jet. The small frame’s main jets are available in various sizes ranging from 37-88, but the idle jets are available in only two sizes: 42 and 45.

From the factory, Vespa 50 and 90 use a size 42 idle jet, while the Primavera and ET3 models use a 45.