Vintage Vespa Refurb

While this scooter didn’t quite start out as a barn find, it wasn’t too far off.  It had its humble beginnings as a bodge job, meaning that, at some point, someone made it look decent and wired it up like they were high on glue.

This 1966 Vespa VBC was has been restored and is ready for the next 48 years of its life.

Ryan Jeffries, Scooterworks alum, 100cc land speed record holder and all-around good guy, took this 1966 Vespa Super home with him and brought it up to snuff.  He started by stripping the bike down to just a frame and a fender.  He saved what he could, but some of it was better off in the trash.  Ryan then did a bit of body work, repainted the frame and fender along with the cowls and tank, and redid the trim.  He ran all new cables and a harness and replaced the rubber bits along the way.

Complete 150cc two stroke engine for most old Vespas

This scooter got a brand new LML 150cc 5 port engine, which included a 20/20 carb and a stock exhaust.  The new engine has an edge over its Vespa predecessor, with reed induction and electronic ignition.

1966 Vespa Super restoration shots

All of the fun stuff like the lights and switches were wired in.  Brand new bearings, suspension and steering went up the chimney with care.  The change over to a Sprint fork allowed this Super to run on 10” wheels, just like it always wished for.  Fresh rims, tubes and tires were installed along with new grips, levers, seat and speedo.

Vespa Super, chilling out by a wall, looking all brand new

Anyone who has ever restored anything knows that it is a labor of love.  Faithful restorations take time, money and an insane amount of patience.  NOS parts have long since dried up in many cases; repops don’t have same charm and, in some cases, quality.  If you are thinking about restoring the old Vespa in your uncle’s garage, or the one you got on Craigslist that ‘just needs a carb cleaning’, we’re here to help. We also carry some great books and manuals to help you on your way, and a boatload of accessories for when you’re finished.

 

Partial build list:

Two Tires Two Tubes Two Rims Deal (2T2R2T)

Rear Shock (83816)

Front Shock (137571S)

Front Fork Assembly (152300)

Engine Side Cowl (100097)

Glovebox Side Cowl (91836)

Cowl Rubber (135231B)

Sprint/Super Seat (CSS1)

Floor Rail Kit (FRKVNB)

Centermat (85072)

Centermat Trim (85074)

Taillight Assembly (70700)

Complete Cable Set (CCS6)

150cc 2T LML Engine (145227NI)

Grips (60304B)

Fender and Cowl Trim Set (90522)

Speedometer (183586)

Centerstand with Boots (91047)

Gas Tank (94146)

Stiletto Levers (70578)

Wiring Harness (92563)

Welcome to the Slaughterhouse

Scooterworks Tech advisor, Ken, took full advantage of an unsuspecting Roughhouse last week.  The result was a very angry scooter that he dubbed ‘The Slaughterhouse’.

With a suspension overhaul, the Prima race pipe and a slew of NCY performance parts, he took this scooter from a back roads errand runner to an asphalt hell raiser.

RoughHouse Scooter, this 50cc 2t means business

Ken replaced the stock cylinder with a 68cc ceramic NCY jug and head, and the NCY Direct Ignition Coil was added for hotter spark.  He swapped the stock carb with an adjustable 19mm Malossi carburetor to compensate for the bigger displacement.  The air box was replaced with the Scooterworks racing air filter for more flow, and the new carbon fiber Pinasco reeds make this baby’s heart a-flutter.  All of these changes mean that this little beast is breathing the way it was meant to, and getting all of the tasty premix it so craves.   He also installed the NCY Super Trans Kit, using lighter weights for more delicious torque, and a Malossi Kevlar Belt to handle it all.

The beefed-up front end on the Slaughterhouse is probably the most obvious upgrade.  Ken replaced just about everything he could with NCY parts, from fork tubes and the disc brake to the caliper and valve stems.  The result- a better ride that eats stoppies for breakfast.

Multiple angles on this scooter's performance upgrades

Ken also snagged our prototype low profile RoughHouse seat (expected this spring, in black and red) and installed the Scooterworks Low Down Shock, reducing the seat height a full three inches in the process.

All of these upgrades are well and good, but perhaps the most notable and reasonable for the sane rider, such as you, are the tires.  By switching from the stock knobby tires to Vee Rubber sport tires, he has added about 4 mph to his top speed, all while giving the Slaughterhouse a more refined, business casual look.

Sport tires and a race exhaust on a Genuine RoughHouse Scooter

 

Side by side of a stock Genuine RoughHouse and a customized, angrier one.

The Slaughterhouse is not affiliated with the Slaughterhouse Rally, which is held in Chicago every year over Labor Day weekend, and is awesome.  For more info on that, join their Facebook group or scope out their website.  This year’s details are coming soon!

 

Build List:

Prima Race Pipe, Genuine 50cc (PE-THIRTYTWO)

NCY Super Trans Kit; GY50/QMB139 (1200-1171)

NCY Rollers 16×13, 6G (1200-1051)

Direct Ignition Coil 0900-1075

NCY Cylinder w/ Head 47mm, 68cc (1100-1245)

NCY Adjustable Front Forks (1000-1134)

NCY 200mm Floated Disc Brake  (1000-1289)

NCY Forged Brake Caliper (1000-1311)

NCY Banjo Bolt (1600-0010)

NCY Throttle & Grip Set (0800-0102)

NCY Brake Line (1100-1238)

Prima Rear Rack (RRRAT1-B)

Scooterworks Low Down Shock (1000-1293)

Vee Rubber Sport Tire, Front (0600-0063)

Vee Rubber Sport Tire, Rear (0600-0033)

NCY Valve Stem (0600-0005)

NCY Axle (1000-1263)

Scooterworks Racing Air Filter (1300-1112)

Malossi Kevlar Belt (M 6112729)

Pinasco Reed Petals (P 10387503)

19mm Malossi Performance Carb M 1611028

Don’t Fear the Reaper

One thing that sets the Genuine Buddy apart from the rest of the pack is the slew of upgrades and modifications available.  And another thing that sets it apart is the fact that you don’t need to change a thing to have a solid scoot— but where’s the fun in that?

One of the fastest Genuine Buddy scooters around, thanks to perfromance upgrades

Custom Buddys are typically geared more towards performance than looks.  It isn’t all about an air ride, custom paint, and LEDs.  It’s about adding horsepower and torque, everyone’s two favorite ingredients.

Genuine’s tech advisor, Massimo, decided to have some fun after work last fall with a Buddy 170i prototype and created what he affectionately calls the Reaper.  The Reaper’s hobbies include wheelies, burnouts, really fast rides along the beach, and sewing.

Performance Genuine Scooter Exhaust

Massimo kept most of his engine and transmission modifications pretty simple by using our NCY bolt-on parts.  He beefed up the suspension and brakes with more NCY goodness, and tweaked the look with our blackout kit, low profile seat and sport mirrors (expected in stock this spring).  He also upped the ante by changing the transmission gearing, and more importantly, installing a racing stripe.  The only thing missing is more cowbell.

Upgraded NCY suspension and brakes on this scooter give is a more comforable ride with some real stopping power

 

There are quite a few sleeper Buddys out there, and you won’t know them until they waste you off the line.

 

Parts List:

NCY Performance Exhaust (0500-1014)

NCY Front Forks (1000-1279)

NCY Brake Disc (1000-1013)

NCY Performance Shock (1000-1044)

NCY 177cc Ceramic GY6 Cylinder Kit (1100-1014)

NCY GY6 Super Trans Kit (1200-1048)

NCY Decompression Tube (1100-1282)

Big Valve Head (1100-1445)

Low Profile Buddy Seat (0400-1050)

Buddy Black Out Kit (0300-0107)

Black Buddy Rear Rack (maybe it is like a spoiler or something?) (RRB1-B)

Spark Plug Type by Model

Genuine

Model NGK spark plug
Black Cat 50 BR7HS/BPR7HS
Rattler 50 BR7HS/BPR7HS
Buddy 50 BR7HS/BPR7HS
Rattler 110 BR7HS/BPR7HS
Buddy 125 CR7HSA
Buddy 150 CR7HSA
Blur 150 CR7E
Stella B7ES

 

Modern Vespa

Model NGK spark plug
ET2 BR9ES
ET4 CR8E
LX50 CR8E
LX150 CR8E
LXV150 CR8E
Vespa S CR8E
GT200 CR8E
GTS250 CR8E
GTV250 CR8E
GTV300 CR8E
GTS300 CR8E
GTS Super CR8E

 

Vintage Vespa

Model NGK spark plug
49-150cc except GS150 B6HS or B7ES (7 is a cooler plug, 6 is hotter)
GS 150 B6HS or B7ES
160cc and up B6HS or B7ES

 

Piaggio

Model NGK spark plug
Typhoon BR8ES
BV200 CR8E
BV250 CR7E/CR7EK
BV500 CR7E/CR7EK
X9 CR7E/CR7EK
MP3-250 CR7E/CR7EK
MP3-400 CR7E/CR7EK
MP3-500 CR7E/CR7EK

 

Kymco

Model NGK spark plug
Cobra BR6HSA
Super9 LC BR6HSA
Super9 AC BR6HSA
People50 2T BR6HSA
Agility50 4T CR7HSA
Vitality50 4T CR7HSA
People S 50 CR7HSA
Filly 4T CR7HSA
ZX50 BR8HSA
Yup50/Sting BR8HSA
Sento C7HSA
Agility 125 CR7HSA
People S 125 CR7HSA
Super8 150 CR7HSA
People 150 CR7HSA
Bet&Win 150 DPR7EA-9
People S 200 CR7HSA
People 250 DPR7EA-9
People S 250 DPR7EA-9
Bet&Win 250 DPR7EA-9
Grand Vista DPR7EA-9
Xciting 250 DPR7EA-9
Xciting 250Ri CR8E
Xciting 500 CR8E
Xciting 500Ri CR8E
Venox 250 CR8E

 

TGB

Model NGK spark plug
KeyWest BR7HS/BPR7HS
R50X BR7HS/BPR7HS
Delivery50 BR7HS/BPR7HS
Delivery150 CR7HSA
Sunset50 BR7HS/BPR7HS
Sunset150 CR7HSA
LaserR5-50 BR7HS/BPR7HS
LaserR9-150 CR7HSA

We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of this chart.  Always compare your plug with the new one before installing, and check your plug for proper color periodically.

Engine: 5-port LML Engine Install (FAQs)

The replacement 5-port engine from LML is a popular Scooterworks product for vintage Vespa restorations – and for good reason: it’s usually a faster, smoother, and more reliable motor than the original!

Below, you’ll find some of the most common questions asked about the 5-port engine’s installation.


Q1. HOW DO I HOOK UP THE WIRING?


This is the most common question when installing the LML engine into a vintage Vespa without battery or signals. The LML stator is a “single” output stator, which means that all of the power comes through one wire, runs through the regulator, to the switch, and is then distributed to the bulbs and horn from there.

NOTE: most US-model vintage Vespa scooters before MY1974 used a three wire output. On these (-’74) models, the stator had three wires (either 2 yellow and 1 red, OR 1 yellow, 1 blue, and 1 green) to feed the lighting system. This style of wiring will not work with the single wire stator, since most did not have an inline regulator and the power from the stator will not be distributed correctly. In order to properly connect the electrical system, a wiring conversion kit (shown, below) is required.

Wiring Conversion Harness Kit Image

Q2. WHY ARE THERE PARTS LEFT OVER?


LML engines are shipped with some electrical components: a silver box (regulator), a red box (CDI). If you purchased the wiring harness kit, you will only be using the blue CDI/coil unit and the components that came with the conversion kit. These other components (the silver and red boxes) will not be used.

 


Q3. HOW DO I CONNECT THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR?


There are three posts on the voltage regulator supplied with the EIKHK harness (above). Two of the posts are closer together and one is “separate”. That separated post is the ground, connect the black wire there. The two posts closer together are both “positive”, connect the blue wire here (either one).

 


Q4. WHERE DO I CONNECT THE GRAY COIL ON THE BACK OF THE ENGINE?


This is another component of the engine that will not be used for the install. The blue CDI/coil unit mentioned above contains everything you need. Remove the grey coil and set it aside (you never know when you’ll need extra electrical parts!).

TIP: when you take the coil off, unscrew the plug wire from it and use it on the new CDI/coil combo. Use the wiring diagram (below) as a reference.

 

These are just the most common questions regarding the LML 5-port engine install – there are many more that you may have, so don’t hesitate to call us at 1-888-968-3772.

5-port LML Engine Run-in

RUN-IN INTRODUCTION

The first 500 miles of your new 5-port LML engine‘s life are without a doubt the most important. The parts are all new, and they all need a few heat cycles to expand and contract and settle into their correct operating tolerances. Taking your time and getting the run-in right will help to ensure a long, reliable life from your new engine.

PRO TIP

Avoid over-straining your new engine with excessive speeds/rpm, and try to keep (more or less) to the speeds, below.

  • 1st Gear : 0-6 mph
  • 2nd Gear : 7-12.5 mph
  • 3rd Gear : 12.5-22 mph
  • 4th Gear : 22 + mph

Also, be sure to vary the bike’s speed while cruising, rather than running “steady state” or simply laying on wide-open-throttle (WOT) for long periods of time – this will allow the engine to break in properly under a variety of load conditions.

Be sure, as well, to allow 5-10 minutes of “cool-down” time for each hour of steady use, and check to ensure that the gear box oil stays at the recommended levels.

During engine break-in, it’s also advisable to check and fine-tune your engine’s carb jetting. CLICK HERE for more carb jetting tips, and feel free to call 1-888-968-3772 with any questions you might have.