Vintage Vespa Refurb

While this scooter didn’t quite start out as a barn find, it wasn’t too far off.  It had its humble beginnings as a bodge job, meaning that, at some point, someone made it look decent and wired it up like they were high on glue.

This 1966 Vespa VBC was has been restored and is ready for the next 48 years of its life.

Ryan Jeffries, Scooterworks alum, 100cc land speed record holder and all-around good guy, took this 1966 Vespa Super home with him and brought it up to snuff.  He started by stripping the bike down to just a frame and a fender.  He saved what he could, but some of it was better off in the trash.  Ryan then did a bit of body work, repainted the frame and fender along with the cowls and tank, and redid the trim.  He ran all new cables and a harness and replaced the rubber bits along the way.

Complete 150cc two stroke engine for most old Vespas

This scooter got a brand new LML 150cc 5 port engine, which included a 20/20 carb and a stock exhaust.  The new engine has an edge over its Vespa predecessor, with reed induction and electronic ignition.

1966 Vespa Super restoration shots

All of the fun stuff like the lights and switches were wired in.  Brand new bearings, suspension and steering went up the chimney with care.  The change over to a Sprint fork allowed this Super to run on 10” wheels, just like it always wished for.  Fresh rims, tubes and tires were installed along with new grips, levers, seat and speedo.

Vespa Super, chilling out by a wall, looking all brand new

Anyone who has ever restored anything knows that it is a labor of love.  Faithful restorations take time, money and an insane amount of patience.  NOS parts have long since dried up in many cases; repops don’t have same charm and, in some cases, quality.  If you are thinking about restoring the old Vespa in your uncle’s garage, or the one you got on Craigslist that ‘just needs a carb cleaning’, we’re here to help. We also carry some great books and manuals to help you on your way, and a boatload of accessories for when you’re finished.

 

Partial build list:

Two Tires Two Tubes Two Rims Deal (2T2R2T)

Rear Shock (83816)

Front Shock (137571S)

Front Fork Assembly (152300)

Engine Side Cowl (100097)

Glovebox Side Cowl (91836)

Cowl Rubber (135231B)

Sprint/Super Seat (CSS1)

Floor Rail Kit (FRKVNB)

Centermat (85072)

Centermat Trim (85074)

Taillight Assembly (70700)

Complete Cable Set (CCS6)

150cc 2T LML Engine (145227NI)

Grips (60304B)

Fender and Cowl Trim Set (90522)

Speedometer (183586)

Centerstand with Boots (91047)

Gas Tank (94146)

Stiletto Levers (70578)

Wiring Harness (92563)

Battery by Scooter Model

Below, you’ll find a number of scooters and the batteries they take, as well as links to Scooterworks’ Product Pages to make ordering a replacement battery quicker and easier. More scooters and batteries will be added to the list below as that information becomes available, but you can always visit Scooterworks‘ home page or call 1.888.968.3772 for up-to-the-minute information from one of Scooterworks customer service representatives.

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Genuine

Model Battery
BlackCat/ Roughhouse TX4L-BS
Rattler 50 TX4L-BS
Roughhouse 50 TX4L-BS
Buddy50 TX4L-BS
Rattler 110 TX5L-BS
Buddy 125 TX7A-BS
Buddy 150 & 170i TX7A-BS
Blur 150 TX7L-BS
Blur 220 TX9-BS
Stella B9-B

 

Modern Vespa

Model Battery
ET2 TX4L-BS
ET4 B9B/TX12-BS
LX50 B9-B
LX150 TX12-BS
LXV150 TX12-BS
Vespa S TX12-BS
GT200 TX12-BS
GTS250 TX12-BS
GTV250 TX12-BS
GTS Super TX12-BS

 

Vintage Vespa

Model Battery
60s-70s battery models without turn signals B39-6
70s battery models with turn signals (except Rally) 6N11A-1B
P200E, P125 without electric start 12N5.5-3B
PX150, PX200 with electric start B9-B
GS150 (unique)84647

 

Piaggio

Model Battery
X9 TX12-BS

 

Kymco

Model Battery
Cobra TX4L-BS
People S 50 TX7A-BS
People S 125 TX7A-BS
People S 200 TX7A-BS
People 250 TX7A-BS
People S 250 TX7A-BS

 

TGB

Model Battery
KeyWest TX5L-BS
LaserR9-150 12N9-4B-1

 

TGB

Model Battery
Vintage Chetak (pre-1990)
6N11A-1B

 

Modern Chetak B9-B
Legend B9-B

 

Bulb and Lighting Charts (by Make/Model)





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The part numbers on this page assume stock/factory light fixtures and standard (OEM) wiring. Bulb types and part numbers may change with aftermarket assemblies or upgraded 12V electrics.

The following tables are organized by make/brand. Scooterworks part numbers are listed (in parentheses) where applicable. More makes/models will be added as the information becomes available.

To browse through Scooterworks‘ comprehensive online catalog for replacement parts or aftermarket/custom lighting solutions click here.

Type Key B = Bayonet style bulb (standard push in and turn type bulb)
F = Festoon bulb (looks like a fuse)

Genuine

Model Headlamp Pilot Light Stop Light Tail Light Speedo Light Turn Signal
Genuine Stella 2T/4S

Halogen H4 35 Watt (B12H4)
Headlight Assy. (582946)

    Taillight Assy. (B6F5)   RR Assy. (230339)
LR Assy. (230339)
RF Assy. (163256)
LF Assy. (162817)

 

Vintage Vespa

Model Headlamp Pilot Light Stop Light Tail Light Speedo Light Turn Signal
Vespa 125 VN1-2 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) F 6v-10w (B6F10)   F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
Vespa 150 VL1 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) F 6v-10w (B6F10)   F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
Vespa 125 VNA 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) F 6v-5w (B6F5)   F 6v-5w (F5)    
VNB1 125 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
VNB1 125 Non-Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-5w (B6P5) F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
VNB2-4 125 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
VBA 150 (Model #76051+) Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  

VBA 150   Non-Battery

6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-5w (B6P5) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
VBB1 150 (Model #71000-) Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
VBB1 150 (Model #71001+) Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
VBB1 150 Non-Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-5w (B6P5) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
VBB2 150 Non Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
GL 150 VLA1 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
GL 150 VLA1 Non Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) F 6v-5w (B6F5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
GS 150 VS1 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) F 6v-5w (B6F5)   F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
GS 150 VS2 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) F 6v-1.5w   F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-1.5w (B6FSP)  
GS 150 VS3-4 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) B 6v-1.5w F 6v-10w (B6F10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-1.5w (B6FSP)  
GS 150 VS 5 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HLS) B 6v-5w (B6P5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
GS 160 VSB1 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
GS 160 VSB1 Non Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
Vespa 50 V5A1 V5SA1 V5SS 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-10w (B6F10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
Vespa 50 V5A1 No Stop Light 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5)   F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
Vespa 90 V9A1 V9SS1 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *F 6v-10w (B6F10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5)    
Vespa SS90 V9SS2 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) F 6v-10w (B6F10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
Primavera 125 VMA1 VMA2 & ET3 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *F 6v-10w (B6F10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
Super 125 VNC 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
Super 150 VBC 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP) (B6TS-US Model)
GT 125 VNL2 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
GTR 125 VNL2 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) B 6v-10w (B6P10) F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
Sprint (Veloce) 150 VLB1 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP) (B6TS-US Model)
Super Sport 180 VSC1 Non Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP)  
Super Sport 180 VSC1 Battery 6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP) (B6TS-US Model)

Rally 180 & 200 VSD1 VSE1

6v-25/25w (B6HL25) B 6v-5w (B6P5) *B 6v-10w (B6P10) *F 6v-5w (B6F5) F 6v-0.6w (B6FSP) (B6TS-US Model)
P125 VNX, 150 VLX & 200 VSX 12v-25/25w (B12HL/Euro, 174873/US Model)   (dual filament bulb B122W) (dual filament bulb B122W) 12v-3w 12v-21w (B12TS)
P150 VLX 12v-25/25w (B12HL/Euro, 174873/US Model)   (dual filament bulb B122W) (dual filament bulb B122W) 12v-3w 12v-21w (B12TS)
P200 VSX1T 12v-25/25w (B12HL/Euro, 174873/US Model) (dual filament bulb B122W) (dual filament bulb B122W) 12v-3w 12v-21w (B12TS)

B6


Engine: 5-port LML Engine Install (FAQs)

The replacement 5-port engine from LML is a popular Scooterworks product for vintage Vespa restorations – and for good reason: it’s usually a faster, smoother, and more reliable motor than the original!

Below, you’ll find some of the most common questions asked about the 5-port engine’s installation.


Q1. HOW DO I HOOK UP THE WIRING?


This is the most common question when installing the LML engine into a vintage Vespa without battery or signals. The LML stator is a “single” output stator, which means that all of the power comes through one wire, runs through the regulator, to the switch, and is then distributed to the bulbs and horn from there.

NOTE: most US-model vintage Vespa scooters before MY1974 used a three wire output. On these (-’74) models, the stator had three wires (either 2 yellow and 1 red, OR 1 yellow, 1 blue, and 1 green) to feed the lighting system. This style of wiring will not work with the single wire stator, since most did not have an inline regulator and the power from the stator will not be distributed correctly. In order to properly connect the electrical system, a wiring conversion kit (shown, below) is required.

Wiring Conversion Harness Kit Image

Q2. WHY ARE THERE PARTS LEFT OVER?


LML engines are shipped with some electrical components: a silver box (regulator), a red box (CDI). If you purchased the wiring harness kit, you will only be using the blue CDI/coil unit and the components that came with the conversion kit. These other components (the silver and red boxes) will not be used.

 


Q3. HOW DO I CONNECT THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR?


There are three posts on the voltage regulator supplied with the EIKHK harness (above). Two of the posts are closer together and one is “separate”. That separated post is the ground, connect the black wire there. The two posts closer together are both “positive”, connect the blue wire here (either one).

 


Q4. WHERE DO I CONNECT THE GRAY COIL ON THE BACK OF THE ENGINE?


This is another component of the engine that will not be used for the install. The blue CDI/coil unit mentioned above contains everything you need. Remove the grey coil and set it aside (you never know when you’ll need extra electrical parts!).

TIP: when you take the coil off, unscrew the plug wire from it and use it on the new CDI/coil combo. Use the wiring diagram (below) as a reference.

 

These are just the most common questions regarding the LML 5-port engine install – there are many more that you may have, so don’t hesitate to call us at 1-888-968-3772.

5-port LML Engine Run-in

RUN-IN INTRODUCTION

The first 500 miles of your new 5-port LML engine‘s life are without a doubt the most important. The parts are all new, and they all need a few heat cycles to expand and contract and settle into their correct operating tolerances. Taking your time and getting the run-in right will help to ensure a long, reliable life from your new engine.

PRO TIP

Avoid over-straining your new engine with excessive speeds/rpm, and try to keep (more or less) to the speeds, below.

  • 1st Gear : 0-6 mph
  • 2nd Gear : 7-12.5 mph
  • 3rd Gear : 12.5-22 mph
  • 4th Gear : 22 + mph

Also, be sure to vary the bike’s speed while cruising, rather than running “steady state” or simply laying on wide-open-throttle (WOT) for long periods of time – this will allow the engine to break in properly under a variety of load conditions.

Be sure, as well, to allow 5-10 minutes of “cool-down” time for each hour of steady use, and check to ensure that the gear box oil stays at the recommended levels.

During engine break-in, it’s also advisable to check and fine-tune your engine’s carb jetting. CLICK HERE for more carb jetting tips, and feel free to call 1-888-968-3772 with any questions you might have.

Carburetor Jetting 101

Getting the most out of a scooter’s carburetor jets is a tough thing for many people. Carb jetting is often part science, part guesstimate, part trial and error. Without a dynamo-meter and some pretty advanced tools, nobody can tell you exactly which carb jets will extract the maximum performance from your hardware, especially if you’ve created a “one-of-a-kind” machine with a series of aftermarket performance upgrades.

That doesn’t mean there’s nothing to learn and that you can’t – through trial and error – find the right jetting on your own. With that in mind, here’s a (very) basic tutorial on the theory behind proper jetting.

Don’t forget: if you can’t find what you’re looking for here, don’t hesitate to call Scooterworks’ customer support at 1-888-968-3772.
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CHOOSING THE RIGHT JETS
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Dellorto Carb Jet

Carburetor jets are small brass fittings (above) that go in the carburetor and have very precisely-bored small holes in them for fuel and/or air to pass through. The size of these holes will determine your fuel to air ratio, and therefore how rich or lean your mixture is.

Most scooters have at least two jets in their carbs. Large frame vintage Vespas have four: a main jet, an atomizer (mix tube), and an air jet make up the main jet “stack.” There’s a separate idle jet too. Each of these is offered in different “sizes” (really hole sizes). It’s important to know what each means.

If your bike is stock, Scooterworks recommends original, factory-spec carb jets. Those settings were selected at the factory for maximum drivability and emissions compliance, and should work fine for you. If you live near sea level, that is. At higher altitude, the air is “thinner” (less oxygen dense) and with smaller jets may be required to get a proper air/fuel mixture.

If you have a factory-spec. scooter and spend most of your time in a high-altitude riding environment (Denver, Mexico City, etc.) start out by trying a jet that is one or two sizes smaller than the factory “sea level” jet.

If you’ve just installed a performance exhaust, try a jet that is one or two sizes larger than stock as a baseline. If you’ve installed a Malossi cylinder kit on your Stella (for example) or done other extensive performance upgrades, go bigger yet!

If you can’t tell whether or not you’ve selected the right jets based on your riding experience, your spark plug can be an effective indicator of how you’re doing. Start with a fresh plug and go for a short ride, then remove your plug and check the tip, which should be chocolaty-brown color. If it’s black and sooty, you’re running too rich (the jet is too big) and need to trim back the fuel (with a smaller jet). If the plug’s tip is white or “salt-and-pepper”, you’re running too lean (the jet is too small) and need more fuel.
TIP No. 1: with your new jet installed, run your scooter’s throttle 3/4 of the way open, then check the plug.
TIP No. 2: after you’ve tried No. 1, repeat the process at 1/4 throttle to determine if your idle jet is the correct size.

For scooters with a needle on the slide, there is usually an adjustment for the needle height in the slide which determines the fuel mixture in the middle 1/3 of the throttle range. You can do a third ride test with the throttle at 1/2 open to determine this mixture. If it’s too rich, lower your slide a notch. If it’s too lean, raise it.

For scooters without a needle on the slide, the adjustment process is a bit different. If you experience bogging or poor acceleration while you’re riding, the idle jet is probably the wrong size. Try adjusting the air mixture screw first (which serves as a fine adjustment tool for the idle jet), and if the problem doesn’t “adjust away”, change the jet size and try again.
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LARGE FRAME VESPA
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Understanding proper jet selection for large frame Vespas requires identifying a number of components within the carb, which include …
MAIN JET STACK
– the larger screw-in brass jet (made up of three sections) that regulates fuel/air mixture at the “top” 1/3 of the throttle range (66-100% throttle).

MAIN JET
– the small, cone-shaped jet at the bottom of the main jet stack. These are available in various sizes, ranging from 82-165. Most vintage Vespas will use one in the 85-116 range, although high-performance and race-tuned engines may require much more fuel and use much bigger jets. The higher the number, the larger the jet and the more fuel will flow through to the engine.

ATOMIZER (mix tube)
– located in the center of the main jet stack, it has small holes in the sides. The rating on this type is BE1-BE5. These ratings don’t seem to have any rhyme or reason. For example, a BE4 does not necessarily let in more fuel than a BE2. Most people leave this stock and work with the main and air jets.

AIR JET
– located the top of the stack, with a slot for a screwdriver to make fine adjustments. The hole that goes through it allows air into the jet to pre-mix with the fuel in the atomizer. These are available in 120, 160, and 185 sizes. As before, the higher the number, the larger the jet and the more fuel will flow through to the engine.

IDLE JET
– the smaller jet which is screwed in next to the main jet stack, the idle jet regulates fuel/air mixture at the bottom 1/3 of the throttle range (idle-33% throttle opening). A combination of the idle jet and the main jet handles the middle 1/3 (34-65% opening). If your idle jet is too big or too small, it can create a “flat spot” in the scooter’s acceleration.

Unlike the other jets on this list, idle jets have two numbers – the first number is the size of the bore that allows fuel in, and the second is the size that allows air in. Some common idle jet sizes are: 38/120, 42/160, 45/120, 45/140, 48/160, 50/120, 55/160. So a 45/120 jet would run richer than a 45/140, because the 120 allows less air to pass. To make things more complicated, some vintage Vespas came with “plugged” idle jets, which have no air hole (these are available in sizes 42 and 50).

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SMALL FRAME VESPA
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Small Frame Vespas have only two jets: a main jet (that the needle passes through), and an idle jet. The small frame’s main jets are available in various sizes ranging from 37-88, but the idle jets are available in only two sizes: 42 and 45.

From the factory, Vespa 50 and 90 use a size 42 idle jet, while the Primavera and ET3 models use a 45.