Nine things to look for when buying a used scooter

Summer is right around the corner, and you let another winter slip by without building a scooter from scratch.  If you don’t own a scooter, and you’re reading this, chances are that you’re looking to buy one.  Or you just fell down an internet rabbit hole.

There are plenty of reasons to buy new, like peace of mind, financing options, warranties and roadside assistance.  If those are major selling points for you, then you should plan a visit to your local scooter shop.
Used Scooter DealershipThere are at least two good reasons to buy used- saving money and selection (chances are there won’t be any P200s rolling off the assembly line any time soon).

Dealerships are a great stop in your search for a used scooter.  They often have a few used models available and can give you a good run down on what to expect out of your used scooter.  Some dealerships even offer a house warranty on used bikes. 

The other stop is the internet.  Craigslist, Facebook Market Place, Cycle Trader and Offerup are all good sites to checkout inventory*.Scooter Starter ParkIf you find a scooter that is in your price range and area, there are a few key things to look at, even before you reach out to the seller:

1. Does it have a clean and clear title? 

If the answer is no, you should brace yourself for some headaches.  Laws vary by state, so you may have less of a problem getting it plated/registered and insured.  If you will only be using this in your private hippie commune, then do whatever you want. 

2. Does it run? 

If the answer is no, the fix may be as simple as a carb clean or a new ignition coil.  The fix could also mean you need a whole new crankshaft installed.  Even if it does run, it may still need those things. 

3. How long has it been sitting?

If it looks super dusty in the pictures, chances are the answer is “Very long”.  Sitting isn’t good for a scooter, especially if it wasn’t prepped before being put in storage.  It might need a new battery, a carb clean, fuel flush and new tires

 3. Are parts still available for it? 

If the answer is “no”, you might not be looking hard enough.  Or you’re checking out a Cushman.  You can still get parts for most old scooters and pretty much any scooter that came out in the last 10 years.  Replacement body parts are tricky.  If the scooter you’re looking at is missing a bunch of body panels, it was probably a.) involved in a crash, b.) involved in a botched “custom” project that the owner gave up on, or c.) stolen.  Or it is a Ruckus/Ruckus Clone/Chuckus, and they don’t really have many panels to begin with (if it is a Ruckus, you should still double check that it isn’t a botched custom attempt, just to be safe).

That’s a lot of “mights”, and you haven’t even seen it in person yet.  If you are still set on seeing it in person, there are more things to look at.  A lot of private sellers are wary of letting you test ride, so don’t count on riding it until you’ve paid for it.Line BreakHere are a few things to check in-person:

4. Are there keys for it?

You can get replacement locksets for most scooters, but, like with cars, the newer the scooter, the more complicated the ignition switch could be.  For instance, a Buddy 170 ignition switch won’t work on a Buddy 125, and Buddys built after 2012 have a different ignition switch than the older models while a PX150 tumbler set will work on every PX150 and any Stella.  Key blanks only work if you have at least one key to begin with, or you’re really good at disassembling and arranging tumbler pins and tiny springs.

Also, if might be stolen.

5. Does it actually run?  How does it sound? 

Four stroke engines have a nice and smooth hum.  Two Stroke engines sound like a gentle chainsaw or weed whacker.  If the scooter already has a performance pipe on it, the sound will be a little different- a four stroke will typically have a throatier grumble, a two stroke with an expansion chamber exhaust will have a “brap” sound, that sounds a little like things are popping.

Is it smoking? If it is a four stroke and it is smoking, you’ve got a problem.  If it is a two stroke and it isn’t smoking, you’ve got a problem.

If it is rattling or making a grinding noise, something isn’t right.  Is could be a worn cylinder, it could be a crank bearing that’s about to disintegrate. 

Ask the seller to rev the engine.  It should respond quickly and drop back down to idle speed quickly.  If it doesn’t, it could need carb work, the throttle cable may be sticking, the throttle tube could be sticking, the throttle slide could be sticking- basically, something is sticking somewhere, it should return to idle quickly.

If the bike dies right away when the seller revs it, feel free to knock $100 off of whatever they’re asking.  Something is up with the carb.  It is always the carb.  Maybe it’s the air intake.  (It’s probably the carb.)

6. How do the tires look? 

Do they hold air?  Bald tires need to be replaced.  Tires with dry rot (cracking along the sidewall) need to be replaced.  If it is a vintage Vespa and the tires look worn and say Cheng Shin, you should replace those, they’re super old.

7. How are the brakes? 

You can test this one without test riding.  If the levers bottom out (or are snapped off) you don’t have brakes.  If you can hold down the brakes and still turn the wheel, you don’t have brakes.  If you can barely squeeze the lever, you probably have brakes that need to be bled/adjusted, or you have a stuck cable, seized caliper or seized shoe.

8. Do all of the lights work?

A signal that won’t flash is usually just a bulb that needs replacing, but sometimes it is a bad relay or a super fun electrical gremlin. 

9. How rusted is the exhaust?

Exhaust pipes are usually the first thing to go, the temperature extremes, combined with getting splattered with road grime mean they’re prone to rusting out.  Replacement stock exhausts are relatively easy to find.  Aftermarket performance exhausts are fun to have.  Replacing a scooter exhaust is pretty straightforward but can be complicated by seized headers and mounting bolts.Line BreakThat’s a lot to look at, but it could be the difference between you terrorizing the neighborhood all summer long on a new-to-you scooter and you staring at the new-to-you lawn ornament that you can’t get plates for and doesn’t run.  

Of course, everything can be fixed.  And there are a fair amount of basket cases out there that deserve a second chance on the road.  It is just a question of whether or not you want to sort out (and pay for) all of the headaches.

*Please proceed with caution.  This is not an endorsement.  The intersection of the internet and reality should always be questioned.


Do your research when buying any scooter.  If something looks off, it probably is, but everything is fixable. 

Gratuitous Axle Upgrades

Your scooter’s axle is subjected to some of the worst city streets have to offer- things like road salt, potholes and plain old rainwater. With this in mind, they are all typically beefy with a protective coating. Thanks to the precautions that most scooter manufacturers take, a rusted axle is hard to find. Your axle is probably just fine.

All that being said, we carry a line of stainless steel electroplated NCY axles and nuts that are even beefier and protectivier than the stock axles out there. They are also designed differently than any stock scooter axle.
NCY Scooter Front Wheel Axle

While your stock axle is essentially just a long bolt and a nut, the NCY axle is threaded on both sides. The dual threads allow even tightening from both sides of your fork setup, which helps properly spread the bearing load during installation. The NCY axles also feature a provision for you to install a cotter pin on each side, which adds a little extra insurance against the nuts backing off.
NCY Scooter Front Wheel Axle

These axles are built for the rigors of racing applications, as an upgrade to whatever came stock on your scoot. You probably don’t need them, but, if you’re already replacing anything on your front wheel, they are an easy install. The electroplate finish also adds a nice touch of class, if you’re into that.

Model Axle Nuts
Zuma 50, JOG, DIO NCY Super Front Axle (Electroplated,10mm) 1000-1356
Zuma 125 NCY Front Wheel Axle (Electroplated, 12mm) 1000-1110 1000-1368
GY6, Buddy, Roughhouse NCY Front Axle (Electroplated, 12mm) 1000-1263 1000-1368

What the clutch? Why do we carry six different kinds?

Clutches are a slippery point in scooter tuning. If your stock one is worn, you should replace it. If you want to go faster, you should probably focus on your carb, engine and variator. If you want to go faster faster, then we should have the clutch talk.

A properly fit clutch will optimize your engine’s output while balancing it with your preferred riding style. Think of a blocking sled in football. Your scooter is the sled, you are the engine, and how your clutch is set up determines the running head start you have leading up to impact. If your clutch engages right away because the spring tension is too low or the arms are too light, you are starting right in front of the sled and you will have a harder time pushing the sled. If your clutch engages too late because the arms are too heavy and the spring preload is too high, you are starting too far away, and you will hit your top speed before you hit the blocking sled- meaning you are wasting time and energy to get off the line. The right clutch will put you at the right distance from the sled based on your speed and weight (the engine’s output).

exactly how a scooter clutch works
We know that dialing in the clutch is a matter of engine output and riding style, so there isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution. This is why we currently carry six different GY6 clutches. The principles discussed here also apply to QMB139 and Minarelli/JOG engines.

How am I supposed to choose?
Some of the things you’ll want to look at in choosing a clutch are the weight, pad size and adjustability. A lighter weight clutch reduces rotational mass and the initial energy required to spin it. Bigger pads mean more contact with the clutch bell, which translate your engine’s power to your rear wheel. The adjustability refers to whether or not the clutch has any built-in adjustments. All clutches can be adjusted by replacing springs, changing arms out and even shaving material off of things, but the clutch needs to be removed or disassembled to do this. For our purposes, “adjustable clutch” refers to clutches with an adjustment that can be made to the clutch itself.

We’ll start with the stock replacement. SKU 1100-1209
Current Retail Price $36.99

This clutch is a standard GY6 clutch that doesn’t have any adjustment settings. It does feature a brace along the inside that helps prevent the clutch from warping due to the rotational force applied to the clutch arm posts. You can swap out the springs pretty easily by popping this plate off. It weighs 973 g and the pads are 37 mm x 23.5 mm. This is a good option if you’re just looking to replace your worn stock clutch. It is sturdy and will last as long as your old one did.

replacement gy6 scooter clutch

Next up is the NCY green performance clutch. SKU 1200-1202
Current Retail Price $52.99

This is the same clutch that comes in the NCY GY6 Super Trans kit. It is not adjustable. It has an inner brace. It weighs 1005 g and the pads are 50.5 mm x 22 mm. The bigger pads are a big reason why this is considered a performance clutch. While they may have added a little weight, they are also adding over 27% more contact area than a typical stock clutch. It is also green, which is one of the faster colors, and the fit and finish of this one are head and shoulders above stock clutches.

NCY GY6 Performance Scooter clutch

NCY also makes an adjustable clutch for GY6. SKU 1200-1029
Current Retail Price $65.99

The adjustment on this clutch is unique to all of our other GY6 clutches. There are actually removable weights in the three arms. With the weights installed, this clutch weighs in at 867 g. Removing the three weights drops it down to 789 g. The pads are 48 mm x 22 mm, and it does not have an inner brace.

NCY Adjustable Scooter clutch

The plot continues to thicken with the Malossi Delta Clutch. SKU M 5212487
Current Retail Price $159.99

This clutch is made in Italy, a country known for their love affair with speed. It weighs 1054 g and has an inner brace. The pads measure 48 mm x 23 mm. This clutch features a spring preload adjustment that allows you to fine tune the RPM at which the arms release and engage. To adjust the preload, you loosen the Allen bolt and shift the indexed spring retainer plate in the direction you want. Shifting it to the right loosens tension on the spring and allows the clutch to engage to at a lower RPM. Shifting it to the left increases the tension on the spring, meaning the clutch needs to spin at a higher RPM in order to engage.

Malossi Performance Scooter clutch
Malossi Performance Scooter clutch adjustment detail

Our next contestant also hails from Italy. The Polini Maxi Speed Clutch.
SKU 1200-1230 Current Retail Price $89.99

It feels like a sports car made entirely of top grain leather.

It weighs in at 925 g, even with its inner brace. The pads measure 48 mm x 21 mm.

The Polini Maxi Speed Clutch features the most straightforward spring preload adjustment of all our clutches, utilizing easily accessible bolts that run through a captured nut each the spring. This is the only clutch we carry that can be adjusted while installed. If the stock adjustment range doesn’t suit your needs, we carry Polini-specific clutch springs, as regular clutch springs will not work in these.
Polini Performance Adjustable Scooter clutch
Polini Performance Adjustable Scooter clutch Adjustment Detail

Last but not least, we have the Dr. Pulley HiT Clutch. SKU: 1200-1179
Current Retail Price $299.99

This clutch is expensive for a reason. It uses a unique actuating method that no other clutch we carry does. Instead of just angling out the arms to apply pressure to the bell, it first cocks them into place and then locks them into place to apply the full outward force to the bell. The point is that your clutch isn’t initially dragging with much force (wearing out pads prematurely) and it is only fully engaged at the optimal spot in your power band. The arm is also being pressed against the bell from two spots, the weight pin and the pillow pin, instead of one. And, this is the only one we carry that made it all the way through med school.

Dr Pulley Performance Scooter clutch
Dr Pulley Performance Scooter clutch

Adjustments are determined by two sets of springs. The clutch comes with the base set installed- four sets of pillow springs and four sets of clutch springs. It also comes with a reinforced bell, three compression spring washers/spacers/shims and a clutch nut lock washer. This thing isn’t messing around.

Despite all of its fantabulous technology, it actually only weighs 879 g. The pads are 55 mm x 21 mm. 
It has an inner brace.

The HiT Pulley is definitely everything you’d ever want out of a clutch, but dialing in the right combination of springs out of 25 possible setups can seem daunting.
This clutch is for three people only:
1. The daily road warrior who has to tackle a lot of hills on his or her commute and wants only the best

2. The track warrior who has already put a big bore, variator, carb, exhaust, etc. on their bike and they’re looking to maximize all of it.

3. The person with too much money who doesn’t ride much anyways.

So, if you haven’t already started upgrading your transmission, this clutch is probably overkill. If you have already made a bunch of upgrades, this clutch will kill it.

GY6 Scooter Clutch Comparison Chart


Your clutch setup should be determined by your engine’s power band and your riding style. An engine that peaks around 1000 RPM should have a clutch that engages sooner than one that peaks at 3500 RPM. An improperly fit clutch will either waste your engine’s power by engaging too quickly, making your scooter work harder, or engaging too late and ripping your face off. We carry six different kinds and you should just buy all of them because one of them will work for you. No returns.

Four Tips For Storing Your Scooter This Winter, and Three Tips For Not Storing It.

All of the coolest states experience what we like to call “Winter”. It shows up every year, with that terrible Paul McCartney song (you know the one), and brings with it salt, ice and oppression.

Most of us give our scooter a little kiss on the headset and say “See you in a few months, sweetheart.” While kissing your scooter is always beneficial, there are a few things you can do that will help avoid all of the swearing when you realize your scooter won’t start in the spring.

Step 1: Battery Maintenance:

This is probably the most overlooked step in winterizing your scooter. Batteries don’t like extreme temperatures, and they don’t like sitting unused. If you know your scooter is going to sit, the battery should be kept in a warm place, ideally on a trickle charger. A good trickle charger does all of the work for you by topping off the charge whenever it senses the battery level has dipped. We highly recommend the Battery Tender line- so much so, they’re the only brand we carry.
If your scooter is going to sit outside, bring the battery in with you. A battery sitting indoors has a better chance of survival than one left outside. You should not, however, leave the battery on a charger indoors. Charging lead acid batteries need to be in a well-ventilated area. A drafty garage is ideal.

Step 2: Scooter Storage:

We don’t all have nice, heated garages. Some of us don’t even have mean, heated garages. Where you store your scooter is largely dependent on where you happen to live. For those of you with garages, you should throw out that broken patio umbrella, hang up your rakes and make the space for your scooter to hunker down.

For those garage-less warriors, there are a few things to keep in mind if you’re parking your scooter- the elements it will be exposed to and safety.

An inexpensive scooter cover will make a significant difference in how well your scooter fares, just by keeping the snow and salt off the scooter. Scooter covers are also designed to allow some airflow beneath, which allows any moisture that does make it in to evaporate.

Anything else you can do to keep the elements at bay is helpful, like parking under an awning.

If you park it on the street, you still need to clear off the snow- a buried scooter just looks like a big pile of snow to plow truck drivers.

Step 3: Tire Care:

Yes, even your tires could use a little TLC during these trying times. All you need to do is make sure they’re properly inflated and are turned every couple of weeks. This helps prevent flat spots from forming. Flat spots can lead to a bumpy and even dangerous ride, and they’re easy to avoid.

Step 4: Fuel Care:

This one is pretty straight forward, but you can make it as complicated as you’d like. There are a few different approaches, and all of them are better than doing nothing at all. This method is the safest one that doesn’t involve spilling gas all over the place and potentially soft seizing your engine:
Fill the tank all the way up and add the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer (we recommend STA-BIL). A full gas tank doesn’t leave as much room for condensation to build up, and the stabilizer will handle any that does. Run your scoot for a few minutes to ensure that the treated gasoline makes its way into your carburetor/injector nozzles.

Fuel stabilizers are meant to prevent varnish build up and deal with moisture. They are inexpensive and can be the difference between hitting the road on that first nice day and having to clean your carb while everyone is out getting ice cream.


We also carry winterization kits for most models that include a cover, Battery Tender and STABIL.

If your storage options are nonexistent, or the winters by you are particularly brutal, you may want to check your local dealer’s storage options. Most dealers will offer winter storage for a modest fee, and they often include things like a spring tune up in with the cost.

If the roads by you are dry, you can certainly ride year-round. You’ll probably want to tune your carb, pop in a hotter plug and invest heavily in gloves. Scooterworks also carries winter tires, which are made of a softer compound that sticks when the temperatures drop. And we have the kilt. Never forget the scooter kilt.

Where can I find parts for this scooter I bought online?

If you’ve ever asked yourself or Google this question, chances are you own a Chinese scooter.

If no one has ever heard of your scooter before, chances are also good that you own a Chinese scooter.

If your new scooter is not a Vespa, Piaggio, Kymco, Genuine, Honda or Yamaha, chances are you own a Chinese scooter.

Chinese scooters generally get a bad rap, and this is largely due to poor support, but they aren’t all bad! Chinese scooters are inexpensive and so are their parts. You can pick up a brand new, decent Chinese scooter for under $1,000, and you can get a replacement carb for that scooter for under $50. You can’t do that with any of the aforementioned name brands.

The vast majority of four stroke Chinese scooters have one of two engine types- GY6 or QMB139

-If it is a 125cc or 150cc four stroke, it is typically lumped under the GY6 term. Other terms for 125cc and 150cc GY6 engines are 152QMI and 157QMJ (also QMI152 and QMJ157), respectively, and simply QMI and QMJ, if you’re into the whole brevity thing.

-QMB139 refers to 50cc four stroke models. Other common terms are GY50 and 139QMB. It is a variation of the GY6 power plant.

This is not to say that all Chinese scooter engines are identical. Manufacturers make small changes regularly, even within the same model year. Some engines are wired for DC, some are AC. Some stators are 6 coil, some are 11.

We do our best to stock the highest quality and lowest priced replacement GY6 and QMB139 parts for most of the Chinese scooters on the market today. Scooterworks USA is able to provide customers with nearly every engine, transmission, and consumable part needed to get your GY6 or QMB139 back up and running. We also stock a wide array of performance parts to get it running even faster.

We have diagrams up for the GY6 and QMB139 engine and transmission, and they are a good starting point. If you already have the busted part in your hand, and you’re getting grease all over your phone while you read this, comparing it to the photo on our website is also a great way to make sure you’re getting the right part.

Some common parts that fail or wear out on Chinese scooters are coils, switches, CDIs, pistons, carburetors, belts, rollers, stators and regulators.

There is also a ton of good info in the forums, 49ccScoot, ScootDawg, and ScooterDoc.

Still stuck? Can’t find the GY6 scooter parts or QMB139 scooter parts you are looking for? Contact Us!

5 Things That Every Scooterist Needs

So you’ve finally decided to man up and buy a scooter. First off, congratulations! Second off, this is gonna be awesome.
New Scooters

There are some things that every rider should have, like proper safety gear, insurance, a tool kit, etc. This isn’t about that. Buy a helmet.

This is about the accessories that take your scooter to the next level. NEXT LEVEL!!!

1. A Scooter Cover!
Prima Scooter Cover, Covers, Scooters

You may be asking yourself, ‘Why do I want that?’ and ‘Was that exclamation point necessary?’ Absolutely!

A scooter cover protects your paint job from the merciless whimsy of Mother Nature! No more faded paint, no more bird poop. Dry seats abound!

A scooter cover actually deters would-be thieves. They don’t know that you have a badass scooter under there. It could be a lame motorcycle, or even a grill (which you’ve decided to park on the street, for some strange reason). Scooter jackers don’t want to be bothered with an extra step.

2. A Lock!

Again with your ‘What gives?’ and ‘More exclamation points?’ For Reals!!

There are a bunch of options out there, for both young and old alike. There are disc locks, which prevent your wheel from spinning by blocking the rotor. There are also chain and cable locks. These can be run through your rim to keep the wheel from turning. You can also run them around your frame or through something on your scoot and wrapped around a nearby post, pole or sturdy dog. Even chaining two scooters together will work wonders.

When a thief sees a locked up scooter, chances are he’ll just look for an easier target. Who knows, maybe all of the frustration you’re causing him with your lock and cover defense will make him decide to get his act together and go back to med school.


3. A Rack!
Prima Scooter Rack” width=

This one probably makes more sense. Exclamation point!

Now that you’ve taken care of protecting your scooter, you can start living it up. A rack opens up the world of possibilities. They offer flexible storage space, a great place to mount a roll bag or topcase, and some even have backrests

While we all wish that our new life as a scooterist will be fun and fancy free, there will come a time when reality calls and asks you to pick up a gallon of milk and a watermelon. With a rack, you can oblige. Strapping your messenger bag or backpack down to a rack will also help you avoid Sweaty Back Syndrome.

4. A Bungee Net
Bungee Net” width=

That’s right. There is no exclamation point here.

The bungee net is the understated, sophisticated ninja of the scooter world. Even if you don’t have a rack, it can still be used to properly secure items to your seat. In a survival situation, it can even be used to trap small animals, probably.

It doesn’t take up much space in your glovebox or under your seat, and you’ll be happy you bought one, when the time comes.

5. A Helmet!
Bungee Helmet” width=

Joke’s on you! Of course you need a helmet, and of course it is on this list!
A properly fitting, DOT approved helmet is one of the easiest ways to make your mom happy. The best way to find the right helmet is to try one on in person. Why not bring your mom along? You owe her a lunch date, at the very least.

(Insert Lame ‘Green With Envy’ Reference Here)

How does the old saying go?  Something about chrome not getting you home?  Well like it or not, Ken, our tech advisor, has de-chromified this Stella – partially in homage to Stella’s P Series ancestors, partially because he is a chrome hater.

Genuine scooter with black trim and bezels

All bezels have been swapped out for black.  The clear lenses were replaced with amber lenses that would make even Stan Lee take notice.  The aluminum legshield trim was replaced with a crimp-free black one.  Even the stock rims were changed to black.  Ken also ditched the centerstand in favor of the black Cuppini sidestand.

Bitubo gas shock for Genuine Stella and P Series Vespa

Nose dives at red lights?  Forget those.  The front suspension was given a huge upgrade with the Bitubo gas shock that fits all Stellas and P-Series Vespas.Prototype black rack for the Stella Automatic, Four Stroke and Two Stroke

This green love machine also got our prototype 4T exhaust, for that distinct growl your grandmother warned you about.  (This pipe is still in development, so stay tuned. [Pun intended.  Deal with it.])  The beefy black rear rack is expected by this summer, and works on both the Stella 4T and Auto.

UPDATE:  The rear rack is finally here, in chrome!

subtly custom Stella 4T


Build List:

Stella Platform Rack (coming soon)

Sidestand (SSC1)

Bitubo Front Shock 174446BP

Black 10” Rim (R10B)

Floormat (FMPS)

Set of Four Amber Lenses (185979S)

Black Legshield Trim (LTR1-B)

Euro Tail light (140000)

Grips (179833)

Vintage Vespa Refurb

While this scooter didn’t quite start out as a barn find, it wasn’t too far off.  It had its humble beginnings as a bodge job, meaning that, at some point, someone made it look decent and wired it up like they were high on glue.

This 1966 Vespa VBC was has been restored and is ready for the next 48 years of its life.

Ryan Jeffries, Scooterworks alum, 100cc land speed record holder and all-around good guy, took this 1966 Vespa Super home with him and brought it up to snuff.  He started by stripping the bike down to just a frame and a fender.  He saved what he could, but some of it was better off in the trash.  Ryan then did a bit of body work, repainted the frame and fender along with the cowls and tank, and redid the trim.  He ran all new cables and a harness and replaced the rubber bits along the way.

Complete 150cc two stroke engine for most old Vespas

This scooter got a brand new LML 150cc 5 port engine, which included a 20/20 carb and a stock exhaust.  The new engine has an edge over its Vespa predecessor, with reed induction and electronic ignition.

1966 Vespa Super restoration shots

All of the fun stuff like the lights and switches were wired in.  Brand new bearings, suspension and steering went up the chimney with care.  The change over to a Sprint fork allowed this Super to run on 10” wheels, just like it always wished for.  Fresh rims, tubes and tires were installed along with new grips, levers, seat and speedo.

Vespa Super, chilling out by a wall, looking all brand new

Anyone who has ever restored anything knows that it is a labor of love.  Faithful restorations take time, money and an insane amount of patience.  NOS parts have long since dried up in many cases; repops don’t have same charm and, in some cases, quality.  If you are thinking about restoring the old Vespa in your uncle’s garage, or the one you got on Craigslist that ‘just needs a carb cleaning’, we’re here to help. We also carry some great books and manuals to help you on your way, and a boatload of accessories for when you’re finished.


Partial build list:

Two Tires Two Tubes Two Rims Deal (2T2R2T)

Rear Shock (83816)

Front Shock (137571S)

Front Fork Assembly (152300)

Engine Side Cowl (100097)

Glovebox Side Cowl (91836)

Cowl Rubber (135231B)

Sprint/Super Seat (CSS1)

Floor Rail Kit (FRKVNB)

Centermat (85072)

Centermat Trim (85074)

Taillight Assembly (70700)

Complete Cable Set (CCS6)

150cc 2T LML Engine (145227NI)

Grips (60304B)

Fender and Cowl Trim Set (90522)

Speedometer (183586)

Centerstand with Boots (91047)

Gas Tank (94146)

Stiletto Levers (70578)

Wiring Harness (92563)

Lower Your Genuine Buddy!

Short Buddy Riders Unite!

We have confirmed that the Scooterworks Low Down rear shock fits on all Genuine Buddys, RoughHouse, Rattler and Black Cat!

Lower your Genuine Buddy by three inches with this seat and rear shock

Our adjustable Scooterworks Low Down shock will lower the Buddy seat height from ½” to 1½”, giving you a new seat height of 28½”.  When this is combined with the Buddy Low Profile seat, the seat height drops an additional 1½”, for an overall drop of three inches, bringing the total seat height down to 27”!

 Lower the seat height on your Genuine Scooter up to three inches.

Installation is a snap.  To fit the Scooterworks Low Down shock on these models, you’ll need just to flip the lower clevis (so the offset is facing outward and the bolt enters from the inside).

 Close up of Low Down Shock installation on a Buddy Scooter.

For heavier Buddy riders, or those who ride two-up, we advise that you adjust the preload higher and set the height of the shock to no lower than a 1” drop, unless you remove the rear fender for added clearance for the fuel valve.  We tested the shock at this setting on a Buddy with a 220lb rider and had no clearance issues.

The RoughHouse low profile seat is due in this spring.

Welcome to the Slaughterhouse

Scooterworks Tech advisor, Ken, took full advantage of an unsuspecting Roughhouse last week.  The result was a very angry scooter that he dubbed ‘The Slaughterhouse’.

With a suspension overhaul, the Prima race pipe and a slew of NCY performance parts, he took this scooter from a back roads errand runner to an asphalt hell raiser.

RoughHouse Scooter, this 50cc 2t means business

Ken replaced the stock cylinder with a 68cc ceramic NCY jug and head, and the NCY Direct Ignition Coil was added for hotter spark.  He swapped the stock carb with an adjustable 19mm Malossi carburetor to compensate for the bigger displacement.  The air box was replaced with the Scooterworks racing air filter for more flow, and the new carbon fiber Pinasco reeds make this baby’s heart a-flutter.  All of these changes mean that this little beast is breathing the way it was meant to, and getting all of the tasty premix it so craves.   He also installed the NCY Super Trans Kit, using lighter weights for more delicious torque, and a Malossi Kevlar Belt to handle it all.

The beefed-up front end on the Slaughterhouse is probably the most obvious upgrade.  Ken replaced just about everything he could with NCY parts, from fork tubes and the disc brake to the caliper and valve stems.  The result- a better ride that eats stoppies for breakfast.

Multiple angles on this scooter's performance upgrades

Ken also snagged our prototype low profile RoughHouse seat (expected this spring, in black and red) and installed the Scooterworks Low Down Shock, reducing the seat height a full three inches in the process.

All of these upgrades are well and good, but perhaps the most notable and reasonable for the sane rider, such as you, are the tires.  By switching from the stock knobby tires to Vee Rubber sport tires, he has added about 4 mph to his top speed, all while giving the Slaughterhouse a more refined, business casual look.

Sport tires and a race exhaust on a Genuine RoughHouse Scooter


Side by side of a stock Genuine RoughHouse and a customized, angrier one.

The Slaughterhouse is not affiliated with the Slaughterhouse Rally, which is held in Chicago every year over Labor Day weekend, and is awesome.  For more info on that, join their Facebook group or scope out their website.  This year’s details are coming soon!


Build List:

Prima Race Pipe, Genuine 50cc (PE-THIRTYTWO)

NCY Super Trans Kit; GY50/QMB139 (1200-1171)

NCY Rollers 16×13, 6G (1200-1051)

Direct Ignition Coil 0900-1075

NCY Cylinder w/ Head 47mm, 68cc (1100-1245)

NCY Adjustable Front Forks (1000-1134)

NCY 200mm Floated Disc Brake  (1000-1289)

NCY Forged Brake Caliper (1000-1311)

NCY Banjo Bolt (1600-0010)

NCY Throttle & Grip Set (0800-0102)

NCY Brake Line (1100-1238)

Prima Rear Rack (RRRAT1-B)

Scooterworks Low Down Shock (1000-1293)

Vee Rubber Sport Tire, Front (0600-0063)

Vee Rubber Sport Tire, Rear (0600-0033)

NCY Valve Stem (0600-0005)

NCY Axle (1000-1263)

Scooterworks Racing Air Filter (1300-1112)

Malossi Kevlar Belt (M 6112729)

Pinasco Reed Petals (P 10387503)

19mm Malossi Performance Carb M 1611028